Your correspondent has been travelling and going on safari in Africa since the early 1980s. I have lost count of the many, majestic sunsets, of the unique wildlife moments accidentally captured by a camera and of the multitude of happy days with friends in remote places. Of all safaris, I rate the experience (along with riding on horseback) of canoeing on the Zambezi (upper) as one of the very best you can ever have in Africa.
We drove about 60 kilometres up on the Zimbabwe side of the river to be met by our river guides and crew. Make no bones about it, the guides are highly professional and know the river like the back of their hands. Like most Zimbos, they are relaxed in their manner and in sharing their knowledge but extremely switched on in terms of security and looking after their guests. We were due to camp out on the river banks for 2 nights and to make landfall not far from the town of Victoria Falls.
With a motley and inexperienced group of tourists from all points of the globe, our progress was remarkably quick, and that is the crux of the matter. The river does most of the work, you do not have to paddle hard and you just follow the guide. My constant bugbear over the years on land safaris has been disturbing the tranquillity of nature; of driving around in a Land Rover constantly turning its engine on and off to catch a sighting of game.
On the canoe, you just glide by; we passed a herd of elephant including babies drinking quietly by the bank. We were no more than 5 metres away and yet the elephant was not agitated or disturbed.
When could you do that in a vehicle? Further down the river, between a sandbank and the bank, we surprised a group of impala. The beauty of these gazelles running a few feet away from me in the water is a memory that has stuck with me for some time.
When our guide did speak, you listened as he did not waste his words with no purpose. “When you take the rapid, turn a sharp left as there is a pod of hippo dead ahead.” My partner and I listened, a Canadian couple did not. After getting in position on the side of the bank, we turned around to see what was happening to our kanuk friends. In a flash, we saw the huge jaws of a hippo open beside their canoe. I am not sure whether they did a trial that day for the Canadian Olympic kayaking team, but the effect was the same. You had never seen people paddle as fast and as hard. They lived to tell the tale and have probably recounted the story to many dinner guests in Toronto.
As always, the best things in life end quickly. This is an adventure I will repeat many times and will supply my anecdotes for dinner parties to come. The Zambezi is not the only river you can partake on these safaris but coupled with the beauty of the Victoria Falls, it is something special.
Canoeing On The Upper Zambezi
Victoria Falls Hotel
Nestled in the heart of Zimbabwe, the Victoria Falls Hotel stands as a testament to timeless elegance and unparalleled luxury. With its rich history dating back to 1904, this iconic hotel offers a unique blend of classic charm and modern amenities, making it the ideal retreat for discerning travellers.
Just a stone's throw from the breathtaking Victoria Falls, guests can indulge in spectacular views, exquisite dining experiences, and the soothing sounds of nature, all while enjoying the impeccable service that has made this hotel renowned across the globe.
Victoria Falls River Lodge
Nestled along the banks of the majestic Zambezi River, Victoria Falls River Lodge offers an unparalleled escape into the heart of nature. This enchanting safari lodge combines luxurious accommodations with the awe-inspiring beauty of one of the world's natural wonders.
Whether seeking adventure or relaxation, Victoria Falls River Lodge provides a harmonious retreat where unforgettable experiences await at every turn. Prepare to create treasured memories against the backdrop of breathtaking scenery and the exhilarating pulse of the African wilderness!
Old Drift Lodge
Nestled in the heart of Zambezi National Park, Old Drift Lodge offers guests an enchanting escape into the wild. With breathtaking views of the Zambezi River, this luxury lodge combines comfort with authentic African safari experiences.
Each spacious tented suite is a perfect sanctuary for relaxation after a day of adventure. Whether soaking in the outdoor bath under the stars or joining guided wildlife activities, Old Drift Lodge offers an unforgettable experience amid nature's beauty.
Mbano Manor Hotel
Mbano Manor Hotel is undoubtedly an oasis of luxury, nestled within the captivating beauty of the suburbs of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. This opulent retreat invites discerning travellers to indulge in an exceptional blend of elegance and comfort amidst stunning natural surroundings.
Every detail of Mbano Manor's spectacularly spacious suites and villa, exquisite dining options, and world-class amenities reflects exceptional thought, ensuring an unforgettable guest experience. The luxuriousness of the lodge is, without a doubt, one of the best in the region.
Royal Livingstone Hotel
Experience the Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara, a 5-star oasis on the Zambezi River. With colonial-style buildings, lush verandas, and a pool overlooking the river, it offers 173 luxurious rooms and suites.
The Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara is not just a place to stay, it's an experience in itself. This 5-star oasis offers guests the perfect combination of luxury and natural beauty. The colonial-style buildings and lush verandas give the hotel a timeless charm, while the views of the Zambezi River add a sense of tranquility to your stay.
Tongabezi Lodge
Tongabezi Lodge, the first Zambezi River lodge on the Zambian side of Victoria Falls, was founded in 1990 by Ben Parker and the late Will Ruck-Keene. It is a privately owned and run retreat, focusing on exclusivity and romance, with the warmth and hospitality of the Zambian people.
Days at Tongabezi have no fixed schedule and can be tailored to your preferences. Relax or enjoy various activities. Each house and cottage has a dedicated valet providing personalized service. The Treehouse cottage bathroom is renowned as one of the world's top five bathrooms.
Gorges Lodge
Gorges Lodge and Little Gorges lodge are built on top 200-metre high cliffs above the Zambezi River below, offering guests a more idyllic and peaceful experience away from the busyness surrounding the Falls and the town.
One of the betters safari lodges for those looking for a bit more of a safari experience.
Ilala Lodge
Nestled in the vibrant heart of Victoria Falls, Ilala Lodge offers an unforgettable blend of luxury, comfort, and adventure. This charming boutique hotel is ideally situated for guests eager to immerse themselves in the breathtaking beauty of the nearby falls, just a short stroll away.
With exceptional amenities, including a refreshing swimming pool, welcoming bar, and the opportunity to experience the stunning Zambezi River through a sunset cruise on the Ra-Ikane, Ilala Lodge is the ultimate retreat for families and adventurers alike.