
Your correspondent has been travelling and going on safari in Africa since the early 1980s. I have lost count of the many, majestic sunsets, of the unique wildlife moments accidentally captured by a camera and of the multitude of happy days with friends in remote places. Of all safaris, I rate the experience (along with riding on horseback) of canoeing on the Zambezi (upper) as one of the very best you can ever have in Africa.
We drove about 60 kilometres up on the Zimbabwe side of the river to be met by our river guides and crew. Make no bones about it, the guides are highly professional and know the river like the back of their hands. Like most Zimbos, they are relaxed in their manner and in sharing their knowledge but extremely switched on in terms of security and looking after their guests. We were due to camp out on the river banks for 2 nights and to make landfall not far from the town of Victoria Falls.

With a motley and inexperienced group of tourists from all points of the globe, our progress was remarkably quick, and that is the crux of the matter. The river does most of the work, you do not have to paddle hard and you just follow the guide. My constant bugbear over the years on land safaris has been disturbing the tranquillity of nature; of driving around in a Land Rover constantly turning its engine on and off to catch a sighting of game.
On the canoe, you just glide by; we passed a herd of elephant including babies drinking quietly by the bank. We were no more than 5 metres away and yet the elephant was not agitated or disturbed.
When could you do that in a vehicle? Further down the river, between a sandbank and the bank, we surprised a group of impala. The beauty of these gazelles running a few feet away from me in the water is a memory that has stuck with me for some time.
When our guide did speak, you listened as he did not waste his words with no purpose. “When you take the rapid, turn a sharp left as there is a pod of hippo dead ahead.” My partner and I listened, a Canadian couple did not. After getting in position on the side of the bank, we turned around to see what was happening to our kanuk friends. In a flash, we saw the huge jaws of a hippo open beside their canoe. I am not sure whether they did a trial that day for the Canadian Olympic kayaking team, but the effect was the same. You had never seen people paddle as fast and as hard. They lived to tell the tale and have probably recounted the story to many dinner guests in Toronto.
As always, the best things in life end quickly. This is an adventure I will repeat many times and will supply my anecdotes for dinner parties to come. The Zambezi is not the only river you can partake on these safaris but coupled with the beauty of the Victoria Falls, it is something special.

Canoeing On The Upper Zambezi
The Wallow Lodge
Embark on an unforgettable journey at The Wallow Lodge, where luxury meets the wild beauty of Victoria Falls. This exquisite safari lodge is designed for those who seek both adventure and relaxation, offering an intimate connection with nature in a breathtaking setting.
With its elegantly appointed tented suites and stunning views of the Masuwe River, The Wallow Lodge provides a unique blend of comfort and wilderness, ensuring that every moment spent here is unforgettable.
Toka Leya Camp
With just 12 tented suites, Toka Leya at the Zambezi River offers a tranquil safari experience. Surrounded by nature, the camp overlooks the river and its islands, providing a perfect blend of luxury and eco-conscious design.
The tented suites at Toka Leya are spacious and airy, featuring en-suite bathrooms, private decks with outdoor showers, and comfortable beds for a restful sleep. Each suite has its own peaceful view of the Zambezi River, where you can see elephants bathing in the water or hippos basking in the sun.
Chundukwa River Lodge
Chundukwa River Lodge offers a luxurious retreat along the Zambezi River, providing a peaceful escape with river-facing chalets and family cottage. Enjoy horse riding, farm animals, and delicious meals in a serene setting just a short drive from Livingstone. Perfect for nature lovers seeking a dream trip to Victoria Falls.
Chundukwa River Lodge prides themselves on providing a unique and unforgettable experience for our guests. Surrounded by the stunning natural beauty of Zambia, Chundukwa offers a tranquil and peaceful retreat where you can relax and rejuvenate.
The Elephant Camp
Located in Victoria Falls National Park, The Elephant Camp offers a mix of adventure and tranquillity. With its intimate setting and luxurious accommodations, guests can enjoy the stunning natural surroundings and personalized service.
Whether you seek thrilling wildlife encounters or peaceful moments beside your private plunge pool, The Elephant Camp promises an unforgettable experience that showcases the breathtaking beauty and rich culture of the region.
Matetsi Victoria Falls
Nestled in the stunning landscape of Zimbabwe, Matetsi Victoria Falls combines luxury and adventure. This exclusive safari lodge on the Zambezi River invites guests to enjoy nature while experiencing exceptional comfort and personalized service.
With an impressive backdrop of diverse wildlife and stunning scenery, Matetsi Victoria Falls is the perfect retreat for those seeking to explore the wonders of the region, all while enjoying the finest in hospitality and amenities.
Avani Victoria Falls Resort
At The Avani Resort, enjoy the best view of Victoria Falls. This 3-star hotel, The Avani Victoria Falls Resort, boasts adobe-style architecture and exceptional river views. Situated within Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park and just a short walk from Victoria Falls.
The resort features simple finishes with bright mosaics and fabrics, ethnic wall stencils, Zambian artworks, and timber and plaster ceilings. It consists of eight buildings housing guest rooms, restaurants, and a convention centre. The hotel stands out in the evening against the smoky vapour above.
Royal Livingstone Hotel
Experience the Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara, a 5-star oasis on the Zambezi River. With colonial-style buildings, lush verandas, and a pool overlooking the river, it offers 173 luxurious rooms and suites.
The Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara is not just a place to stay, it's an experience in itself. This 5-star oasis offers guests the perfect combination of luxury and natural beauty. The colonial-style buildings and lush verandas give the hotel a timeless charm, while the views of the Zambezi River add a sense of tranquility to your stay.
Tintswalo at Siankaba
Step into the enchanting world of Tintswalo at Siankaba, where an unparalleled blend of adventure and luxury awaits you amidst the natural beauty of Zambia's verdant landscapes. Set against the backdrop of the majestic Zambezi River, this unique treehouse lodge offers an escape to those seeking an unforgettable safari experience.
With its close proximity to the iconic Victoria Falls and the abundant wildlife of Chobe National Park, Tintswalo at Siankaba is your gateway to a world of exploration, cultural richness, and serene luxury.