
Your correspondent has been travelling and going on safari in Africa since the early 1980s. I have lost count of the many, majestic sunsets, of the unique wildlife moments accidentally captured by a camera and of the multitude of happy days with friends in remote places. Of all safaris, I rate the experience (along with riding on horseback) of canoeing on the Zambezi (upper) as one of the very best you can ever have in Africa.
We drove about 60 kilometres up on the Zimbabwe side of the river to be met by our river guides and crew. Make no bones about it, the guides are highly professional and know the river like the back of their hands. Like most Zimbos, they are relaxed in their manner and in sharing their knowledge but extremely switched on in terms of security and looking after their guests. We were due to camp out on the river banks for 2 nights and to make landfall not far from the town of Victoria Falls.

With a motley and inexperienced group of tourists from all points of the globe, our progress was remarkably quick, and that is the crux of the matter. The river does most of the work, you do not have to paddle hard and you just follow the guide. My constant bugbear over the years on land safaris has been disturbing the tranquillity of nature; of driving around in a Land Rover constantly turning its engine on and off to catch a sighting of game.
On the canoe, you just glide by; we passed a herd of elephant including babies drinking quietly by the bank. We were no more than 5 metres away and yet the elephant was not agitated or disturbed.
When could you do that in a vehicle? Further down the river, between a sandbank and the bank, we surprised a group of impala. The beauty of these gazelles running a few feet away from me in the water is a memory that has stuck with me for some time.
When our guide did speak, you listened as he did not waste his words with no purpose. “When you take the rapid, turn a sharp left as there is a pod of hippo dead ahead.” My partner and I listened, a Canadian couple did not. After getting in position on the side of the bank, we turned around to see what was happening to our kanuk friends. In a flash, we saw the huge jaws of a hippo open beside their canoe. I am not sure whether they did a trial that day for the Canadian Olympic kayaking team, but the effect was the same. You had never seen people paddle as fast and as hard. They lived to tell the tale and have probably recounted the story to many dinner guests in Toronto.
As always, the best things in life end quickly. This is an adventure I will repeat many times and will supply my anecdotes for dinner parties to come. The Zambezi is not the only river you can partake on these safaris but coupled with the beauty of the Victoria Falls, it is something special.

Canoeing On The Upper Zambezi
The Wallow Lodge
Embark on an unforgettable journey at The Wallow Lodge, where luxury meets the wild beauty of Victoria Falls. This exquisite safari lodge is designed for those who seek both adventure and relaxation, offering an intimate connection with nature in a breathtaking setting.
With its elegantly appointed tented suites and stunning views of the Masuwe River, The Wallow Lodge provides a unique blend of comfort and wilderness, ensuring that every moment spent here is unforgettable.
Mukwa River Lodge
Mukwa River Lodge, located near Victoria Falls, offers luxury bush chic accommodation with a blend of local and international flavours. Enjoy a prime location opposite Zambezi National Park, adrenaline activities, child-friendly programs, and sustainable practices.
Experience 5-star service, exquisite dining, and wildlife sightings from your private deck. Just a short drive from Livingstone Town and Victoria Falls, it's an ideal base to explore the area.
Ilala Lodge
Nestled in the vibrant heart of Victoria Falls, Ilala Lodge offers an unforgettable blend of luxury, comfort, and adventure. This charming boutique hotel is ideally situated for guests eager to immerse themselves in the breathtaking beauty of the nearby falls, just a short stroll away.
With exceptional amenities, including a refreshing swimming pool, welcoming bar, and the opportunity to experience the stunning Zambezi River through a sunset cruise on the Ra-Ikane, Ilala Lodge is the ultimate retreat for families and adventurers alike.
Insika Lodge
Nestled on the edge of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, Insika Lodge offers a luxury safari experience with stunning natural beauty. Capturing African charm, Insika provides a serene escape with exhilarating adventures.
With a choice of rooms overlooking lush gardens and waterholes, guests can immerse themselves in captivating wildlife and landscapes. At Insika Lodge, each day is a new journey as you explore the Zambezi River, enjoy gourmet meals, and experience the perfect mix of adventure and relaxation.
Bayete Guest Lodge
Welcome to Bayete Guest Lodge, your gateway to an extraordinary experience at the majestic Victoria Falls. Nestled amidst stunning natural beauty, our lodge combines luxury and comfort with the rich cultural essence of Zimbabwe.
Here, you'll revel in a warm, inviting atmosphere with dedicated staff ready to cater to your every need. Embrace the beauty of nature and immerse yourself in an unparalleled hospitality experience that truly feels like a home away from home.
Victoria Falls Hotel
Nestled in the heart of Zimbabwe, the Victoria Falls Hotel stands as a testament to timeless elegance and unparalleled luxury. With its rich history dating back to 1904, this iconic hotel offers a unique blend of classic charm and modern amenities, making it the ideal retreat for discerning travellers.
Just a stone's throw from the breathtaking Victoria Falls, guests can indulge in spectacular views, exquisite dining experiences, and the soothing sounds of nature, all while enjoying the impeccable service that has made this hotel renowned across the globe.
Royal Chundu Zambezi River Lodge
Royal Chundu Zambezi River Lodge is a luxury resort on the Zambezi in Zambia, the only Relais & Châteaux property in the country. Situated on a private 15 km waterway upstream from Victoria Falls, Royal Chundu offers 14 suites with stunning river views and abundant wildlife.
Less than 30 kilometres from Victoria Falls, it serves as an ideal base to discover Africa's iconic wonder. Whether for a romantic escape or a fun family holiday, Royal Chundu River Lodge will exceed your expectations.
Gorges Lodge
Gorges Lodge and Little Gorges lodge are built on top 200-metre high cliffs above the Zambezi River below, offering guests a more idyllic and peaceful experience away from the busyness surrounding the Falls and the town.
One of the betters safari lodges for those looking for a bit more of a safari experience.