Your correspondent has been travelling and going on safari in Africa since the early 1980s. I have lost count of the many, majestic sunsets, of the unique wildlife moments accidentally captured by a camera and of the multitude of happy days with friends in remote places. Of all safaris, I rate the experience (along with riding on horseback) of canoeing on the Zambezi (upper) as one of the very best you can ever have in Africa.
We drove about 60 kilometres up on the Zimbabwe side of the river to be met by our river guides and crew. Make no bones about it, the guides are highly professional and know the river like the back of their hands. Like most Zimbos, they are relaxed in their manner and in sharing their knowledge but extremely switched on in terms of security and looking after their guests. We were due to camp out on the river banks for 2 nights and to make landfall not far from the town of Victoria Falls.
With a motley and inexperienced group of tourists from all points of the globe, our progress was remarkably quick, and that is the crux of the matter. The river does most of the work, you do not have to paddle hard and you just follow the guide. My constant bugbear over the years on land safaris has been disturbing the tranquillity of nature; of driving around in a Land Rover constantly turning its engine on and off to catch a sighting of game.
On the canoe, you just glide by; we passed a herd of elephant including babies drinking quietly by the bank. We were no more than 5 metres away and yet the elephant was not agitated or disturbed.
When could you do that in a vehicle? Further down the river, between a sandbank and the bank, we surprised a group of impala. The beauty of these gazelles running a few feet away from me in the water is a memory that has stuck with me for some time.
When our guide did speak, you listened as he did not waste his words with no purpose. “When you take the rapid, turn a sharp left as there is a pod of hippo dead ahead.” My partner and I listened, a Canadian couple did not. After getting in position on the side of the bank, we turned around to see what was happening to our kanuk friends. In a flash, we saw the huge jaws of a hippo open beside their canoe. I am not sure whether they did a trial that day for the Canadian Olympic kayaking team, but the effect was the same. You had never seen people paddle as fast and as hard. They lived to tell the tale and have probably recounted the story to many dinner guests in Toronto.
As always, the best things in life end quickly. This is an adventure I will repeat many times and will supply my anecdotes for dinner parties to come. The Zambezi is not the only river you can partake on these safaris but coupled with the beauty of the Victoria Falls, it is something special.
Canoeing On The Upper Zambezi
Chundukwa River Lodge
Chundukwa River Lodge offers a luxurious retreat along the Zambezi River, providing a peaceful escape with river-facing chalets and family cottage. Enjoy horse riding, farm animals, and delicious meals in a serene setting just a short drive from Livingstone. Perfect for nature lovers seeking a dream trip to Victoria Falls.
Chundukwa River Lodge prides themselves on providing a unique and unforgettable experience for our guests. Surrounded by the stunning natural beauty of Zambia, Chundukwa offers a tranquil and peaceful retreat where you can relax and rejuvenate.
Tongabezi Lodge
Tongabezi Lodge, the first Zambezi River lodge on the Zambian side of Victoria Falls, was founded in 1990 by Ben Parker and the late Will Ruck-Keene. It is a privately owned and run retreat, focusing on exclusivity and romance, with the warmth and hospitality of the Zambian people.
Days at Tongabezi have no fixed schedule and can be tailored to your preferences. Relax or enjoy various activities. Each house and cottage has a dedicated valet providing personalized service. The Treehouse cottage bathroom is renowned as one of the world's top five bathrooms.
Avani Victoria Falls Resort
At The Avani Resort, enjoy the best view of Victoria Falls. This 3-star hotel, The Avani Victoria Falls Resort, boasts adobe-style architecture and exceptional river views. Situated within Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park and just a short walk from Victoria Falls.
The resort features simple finishes with bright mosaics and fabrics, ethnic wall stencils, Zambian artworks, and timber and plaster ceilings. It consists of eight buildings housing guest rooms, restaurants, and a convention centre. The hotel stands out in the evening against the smoky vapour above.
Mbano Manor Hotel
Mbano Manor Hotel is undoubtedly an oasis of luxury, nestled within the captivating beauty of the suburbs of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. This opulent retreat invites discerning travellers to indulge in an exceptional blend of elegance and comfort amidst stunning natural surroundings.
Every detail of Mbano Manor's spectacularly spacious suites and villa, exquisite dining options, and world-class amenities reflects exceptional thought, ensuring an unforgettable guest experience. The luxuriousness of the lodge is, without a doubt, one of the best in the region.
The Elephant Camp
Located in Victoria Falls National Park, The Elephant Camp offers a mix of adventure and tranquillity. With its intimate setting and luxurious accommodations, guests can enjoy the stunning natural surroundings and personalized service.
Whether you seek thrilling wildlife encounters or peaceful moments beside your private plunge pool, The Elephant Camp promises an unforgettable experience that showcases the breathtaking beauty and rich culture of the region.
Stanley & Livingstone Boutique Hotel
Nestled in a private game reserve, the Stanley & Livingstone Boutique Hotel offers an exquisite retreat near the breathtaking Victoria Falls. With elegant design and exceptional service, this boutique hotel combines luxury and comfort, making it ideal for a tranquil escape.
Guests can indulge in world-class dining at our elegant restaurants, savoring exquisite dishes crafted by renowned chefs. They can unwind in the lavish spa, where a range of rejuvenating treatments awaits to soothe body and mind.
Sindabezi Island Camp
Sindabezi Island Camp, nestled on the Zambezi River near Victoria Falls, is a secluded haven. Being the sole bush camp in the vicinity, it provides a serene setting for an authentic African adventure. Guests at Sindabezi can relish the vistas of the Zambezi floodplain and the wildlife in the neighbouring National Park.
The journey to Sindabezi is a picturesque boat trip or a guided canoe excursion along the Zambezi, offering glimpses of wildlife along Zimbabwe's riverbanks. The attentive staff ensure that your comfort and requirements are catered to during your entire stay.
Old Drift Lodge
Nestled in the heart of Zambezi National Park, Old Drift Lodge offers guests an enchanting escape into the wild. With breathtaking views of the Zambezi River, this luxury lodge combines comfort with authentic African safari experiences.
Each spacious tented suite is a perfect sanctuary for relaxation after a day of adventure. Whether soaking in the outdoor bath under the stars or joining guided wildlife activities, Old Drift Lodge offers an unforgettable experience amid nature's beauty.