Your correspondent has been travelling and going on safari in Africa since the early 1980s. I have lost count of the many, majestic sunsets, of the unique wildlife moments accidentally captured by a camera and of the multitude of happy days with friends in remote places. Of all safaris, I rate the experience (along with riding on horseback) of canoeing on the Zambezi (upper) as one of the very best you can ever have in Africa.
We drove about 60 kilometres up on the Zimbabwe side of the river to be met by our river guides and crew. Make no bones about it, the guides are highly professional and know the river like the back of their hands. Like most Zimbos, they are relaxed in their manner and in sharing their knowledge but extremely switched on in terms of security and looking after their guests. We were due to camp out on the river banks for 2 nights and to make landfall not far from the town of Victoria Falls.
With a motley and inexperienced group of tourists from all points of the globe, our progress was remarkably quick, and that is the crux of the matter. The river does most of the work, you do not have to paddle hard and you just follow the guide. My constant bugbear over the years on land safaris has been disturbing the tranquillity of nature; of driving around in a Land Rover constantly turning its engine on and off to catch a sighting of game.
On the canoe, you just glide by; we passed a herd of elephant including babies drinking quietly by the bank. We were no more than 5 metres away and yet the elephant was not agitated or disturbed.
When could you do that in a vehicle? Further down the river, between a sandbank and the bank, we surprised a group of impala. The beauty of these gazelles running a few feet away from me in the water is a memory that has stuck with me for some time.
When our guide did speak, you listened as he did not waste his words with no purpose. “When you take the rapid, turn a sharp left as there is a pod of hippo dead ahead.” My partner and I listened, a Canadian couple did not. After getting in position on the side of the bank, we turned around to see what was happening to our kanuk friends. In a flash, we saw the huge jaws of a hippo open beside their canoe. I am not sure whether they did a trial that day for the Canadian Olympic kayaking team, but the effect was the same. You had never seen people paddle as fast and as hard. They lived to tell the tale and have probably recounted the story to many dinner guests in Toronto.
As always, the best things in life end quickly. This is an adventure I will repeat many times and will supply my anecdotes for dinner parties to come. The Zambezi is not the only river you can partake on these safaris but coupled with the beauty of the Victoria Falls, it is something special.
Canoeing On The Upper Zambezi
Matetsi Victoria Falls
Nestled in the stunning landscape of Zimbabwe, Matetsi Victoria Falls combines luxury and adventure. This exclusive safari lodge on the Zambezi River invites guests to enjoy nature while experiencing exceptional comfort and personalized service.
With an impressive backdrop of diverse wildlife and stunning scenery, Matetsi Victoria Falls is the perfect retreat for those seeking to explore the wonders of the region, all while enjoying the finest in hospitality and amenities.
Royal Chundu Zambezi River Lodge
Royal Chundu Zambezi River Lodge is a luxury resort on the Zambezi in Zambia, the only Relais & Châteaux property in the country. Situated on a private 15 km waterway upstream from Victoria Falls, Royal Chundu offers 14 suites with stunning river views and abundant wildlife.
Less than 30 kilometres from Victoria Falls, it serves as an ideal base to discover Africa's iconic wonder. Whether for a romantic escape or a fun family holiday, Royal Chundu River Lodge will exceed your expectations.
Tsowa Safari Island
Welcome to Tsowa Safari Island, a unique island lodge that offers guests a chance to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and immerse themselves in the captivating beauty of Zambezi River's wilderness.
With its luxurious tented suites and stunning natural surroundings, Tsowa Island serves as the ideal base for those wishing to explore the majestic landscapes and vibrant wildlife of the region, all while indulging in unparalleled comfort and hospitality.
David Livingstone Safari Lodge
The David Livingstone Safari Lodge, situated on the Zambezi River, envelops guests in natural luxury. With Victoria Falls as its backdrop, the hotel offers an intimate connection to nature. Lush greenery surrounds the lodge, allowing guests to fully embrace the beauty of Africa.
Accommodation at The David Livingstone ranges from opulent river-view rooms to exclusive treetop suites. Each room combines modern amenities with traditional African design, ensuring a comfortable and stylish stay for all guests.
Mbano Manor Hotel
Mbano Manor Hotel is undoubtedly an oasis of luxury, nestled within the captivating beauty of the suburbs of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. This opulent retreat invites discerning travellers to indulge in an exceptional blend of elegance and comfort amidst stunning natural surroundings.
Every detail of Mbano Manor's spectacularly spacious suites and villa, exquisite dining options, and world-class amenities reflects exceptional thought, ensuring an unforgettable guest experience. The luxuriousness of the lodge is, without a doubt, one of the best in the region.
Insika Lodge
Nestled on the edge of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, Insika Lodge offers a luxury safari experience with stunning natural beauty. Capturing African charm, Insika provides a serene escape with exhilarating adventures.
With a choice of rooms overlooking lush gardens and waterholes, guests can immerse themselves in captivating wildlife and landscapes. At Insika Lodge, each day is a new journey as you explore the Zambezi River, enjoy gourmet meals, and experience the perfect mix of adventure and relaxation.
Waterberry Zambezi Lodge
Nestled in the tranquil landscapes of Livingstone, Zambia, Waterberry Zambezi Lodge offers a luxurious retreat in the heart of the wilderness. Wake up to the Zambezi River's gentle sounds and end your day with a breathtaking sunset.
With meticulously designed cottages and immersive experiences, every moment invites you to discover Zambia's natural beauty. Whether you seek adventure at Victoria Falls or birdwatching, Waterberry promises an unforgettable African and Zambian safari escape.
Tongabezi Lodge
Tongabezi Lodge, the first Zambezi River lodge on the Zambian side of Victoria Falls, was founded in 1990 by Ben Parker and the late Will Ruck-Keene. It is a privately owned and run retreat, focusing on exclusivity and romance, with the warmth and hospitality of the Zambian people.
Days at Tongabezi have no fixed schedule and can be tailored to your preferences. Relax or enjoy various activities. Each house and cottage has a dedicated valet providing personalized service. The Treehouse cottage bathroom is renowned as one of the world's top five bathrooms.