Your correspondent has been travelling and going on safari in Africa since the early 1980s. I have lost count of the many, majestic sunsets, of the unique wildlife moments accidentally captured by a camera and of the multitude of happy days with friends in remote places. Of all safaris, I rate the experience (along with riding on horseback) of canoeing on the Zambezi (upper) as one of the very best you can ever have in Africa.
We drove about 60 kilometres up on the Zimbabwe side of the river to be met by our river guides and crew. Make no bones about it, the guides are highly professional and know the river like the back of their hands. Like most Zimbos, they are relaxed in their manner and in sharing their knowledge but extremely switched on in terms of security and looking after their guests. We were due to camp out on the river banks for 2 nights and to make landfall not far from the town of Victoria Falls.
With a motley and inexperienced group of tourists from all points of the globe, our progress was remarkably quick, and that is the crux of the matter. The river does most of the work, you do not have to paddle hard and you just follow the guide. My constant bugbear over the years on land safaris has been disturbing the tranquillity of nature; of driving around in a Land Rover constantly turning its engine on and off to catch a sighting of game.
On the canoe, you just glide by; we passed a herd of elephant including babies drinking quietly by the bank. We were no more than 5 metres away and yet the elephant was not agitated or disturbed.
When could you do that in a vehicle? Further down the river, between a sandbank and the bank, we surprised a group of impala. The beauty of these gazelles running a few feet away from me in the water is a memory that has stuck with me for some time.
When our guide did speak, you listened as he did not waste his words with no purpose. “When you take the rapid, turn a sharp left as there is a pod of hippo dead ahead.” My partner and I listened, a Canadian couple did not. After getting in position on the side of the bank, we turned around to see what was happening to our kanuk friends. In a flash, we saw the huge jaws of a hippo open beside their canoe. I am not sure whether they did a trial that day for the Canadian Olympic kayaking team, but the effect was the same. You had never seen people paddle as fast and as hard. They lived to tell the tale and have probably recounted the story to many dinner guests in Toronto.
As always, the best things in life end quickly. This is an adventure I will repeat many times and will supply my anecdotes for dinner parties to come. The Zambezi is not the only river you can partake on these safaris but coupled with the beauty of the Victoria Falls, it is something special.
Canoeing On The Upper Zambezi
Stanley & Livingstone Boutique Hotel
Nestled in a private game reserve, the Stanley & Livingstone Boutique Hotel offers an exquisite retreat near the breathtaking Victoria Falls. With elegant design and exceptional service, this boutique hotel combines luxury and comfort, making it ideal for a tranquil escape.
Guests can indulge in world-class dining at our elegant restaurants, savoring exquisite dishes crafted by renowned chefs. They can unwind in the lavish spa, where a range of rejuvenating treatments awaits to soothe body and mind.
Insika Lodge
Nestled on the edge of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, Insika Lodge offers a luxury safari experience with stunning natural beauty. Capturing African charm, Insika provides a serene escape with exhilarating adventures.
With a choice of rooms overlooking lush gardens and waterholes, guests can immerse themselves in captivating wildlife and landscapes. At Insika Lodge, each day is a new journey as you explore the Zambezi River, enjoy gourmet meals, and experience the perfect mix of adventure and relaxation.
Victoria Falls Hotel
Nestled in the heart of Zimbabwe, the Victoria Falls Hotel stands as a testament to timeless elegance and unparalleled luxury. With its rich history dating back to 1904, this iconic hotel offers a unique blend of classic charm and modern amenities, making it the ideal retreat for discerning travellers.
Just a stone's throw from the breathtaking Victoria Falls, guests can indulge in spectacular views, exquisite dining experiences, and the soothing sounds of nature, all while enjoying the impeccable service that has made this hotel renowned across the globe.
Tongabezi Lodge
Tongabezi Lodge, the first Zambezi River lodge on the Zambian side of Victoria Falls, was founded in 1990 by Ben Parker and the late Will Ruck-Keene. It is a privately owned and run retreat, focusing on exclusivity and romance, with the warmth and hospitality of the Zambian people.
Days at Tongabezi have no fixed schedule and can be tailored to your preferences. Relax or enjoy various activities. Each house and cottage has a dedicated valet providing personalized service. The Treehouse cottage bathroom is renowned as one of the world's top five bathrooms.
Sussi & Chuma Lodge
Experience one of the best safari lodge stays in Zambia at Sanctuary Sussi & Chuma. Named after David Livingstone's friends, Sussi & Chuma, this lodge offers an incredible safari adventure on the Zambezi River near Victoria Falls.
Set in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, it provides exclusive access to a stunning African landscape. Encounter hippos, elephants, and diverse birdlife while enjoying views of the Zambezi River. The lodge features a spa, gourmet dining, and an infinity pool with stunning views. Sanctuary Sussi & Chuma Lodge near Victoria Falls promises to exceed your expectations!
Sindabezi Island Camp
Sindabezi Island Camp, nestled on the Zambezi River near Victoria Falls, is a secluded haven. Being the sole bush camp in the vicinity, it provides a serene setting for an authentic African adventure. Guests at Sindabezi can relish the vistas of the Zambezi floodplain and the wildlife in the neighbouring National Park.
The journey to Sindabezi is a picturesque boat trip or a guided canoe excursion along the Zambezi, offering glimpses of wildlife along Zimbabwe's riverbanks. The attentive staff ensure that your comfort and requirements are catered to during your entire stay.
Waterberry Zambezi Lodge
Nestled in the tranquil landscapes of Livingstone, Zambia, Waterberry Zambezi Lodge offers a luxurious retreat in the heart of the wilderness. Wake up to the Zambezi River's gentle sounds and end your day with a breathtaking sunset.
With meticulously designed cottages and immersive experiences, every moment invites you to discover Zambia's natural beauty. Whether you seek adventure at Victoria Falls or birdwatching, Waterberry promises an unforgettable African and Zambian safari escape.
Bayete Guest Lodge
Welcome to Bayete Guest Lodge, your gateway to an extraordinary experience at the majestic Victoria Falls. Nestled amidst stunning natural beauty, our lodge combines luxury and comfort with the rich cultural essence of Zimbabwe.
Here, you'll revel in a warm, inviting atmosphere with dedicated staff ready to cater to your every need. Embrace the beauty of nature and immerse yourself in an unparalleled hospitality experience that truly feels like a home away from home.